Samstag, 20. August 2016

Frankenjura summer 2016

I spent a few weeks in Frankenjura trying old and new projects. The old projects I wanted to try felt very bad this time and the weather was very wet and warm. So I tried some new routes and decided to try Riesenslalom direct 8b at Püttlacher Wand. It was fun to climb this route because compared to my other projects in Frankenjura it is very long and I got into a good climbing flow. After a few attempts I managed to climb it almost to the top. During my attempt it began to rain so much, that the last few meters of the route were absolutely unclimbable. After visiting the Outdoor in Friedrichshafen I was happy to sent my first 8b in Frankenjura in the first attempt. Way more difficult for me was the Peacemaker, a classic from Wolfgang Güllich which is graded 7C+ and felt like 8a+. It took me three days to find a good solution and four days to send it. Unbelievable, how hard and pumpy two meters in a crack can be. Luckily I managed to climb it the last day of my trip. I was very proud to climb this beautiful classical line. First pics Riesenslalom direct, the following Peacemaker.

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